Cold floors and a damp space under your house? We insulate it the right way, so floors feel warmer and the wood stays drier.
Crawl space insulation in Longview puts a layer between your living space and the space under it that your heating and cooling never reaches. It goes either under the floor above or on the crawl space's foundation walls, and at Complete Longview Spray Foam Insulation we decide which one with you after we've been under the house.
Most folks who call us about this have cold floors in January, a back bedroom that never feels right, or a power bill that keeps creeping up, and plenty of them have never crawled under their own house to look, which is fair, since it's not a fun trip. The price moves with the size of the space, how much room there is to work, whether old insulation that's sagging, soaked or full of droppings has to come out first, whether we're doing the floor or the walls, and whether a crawl space vapor barrier goes down with it. The schedule mostly turns on what we find down there, moisture especially, and on whether the city wants a permit. The estimate I write spells out which areas and which materials the job covers, so you know what you're paying for before anybody picks up a tool.
I'm the one who comes out, gets under the house and writes up your estimate, so the person explaining the job is the person who actually saw it. Our own crew lead and installers do the work, not somebody we met that morning.
I started out blowing insulation into neighbors' attics around Longview on weekends, and in 2013 it became my full-time work. That's 13 years of seeing what goes wrong when insulation goes in over a leak, and why doing things in the right order matters.
We're licensed and fully insured, which matters when people are working around wiring, pipes and gas lines under your floor. Satisfaction guaranteed. To get started, call (903) 309-1886 or use the form, and I'll set up a time to come take a look.
Send us the rough square footage, whether the crawl space has vents and whether anything down there burns gas, and we'll reply within one business day, a lot of the time with me on the phone. Then I come out for a free estimate at your property, look under the house, and write up which areas and which materials the job covers. No pressure, no obligation.
In Longview, the city's building department issues building permits and lays out the code requirements for a job before a permit goes out, and the codes the city has adopted include the energy code that covers how homes are insulated. Whether your crawl space job needs a permit isn't something I'll guess at, so before work starts we check with the building office for the city your house is in, and if a permit is needed, we take care of it as part of the job and tell you up front.
Longview sits in Gregg County, which one climate tool puts in a warm, humid zone, and that matches what we see under houses here, damp air that hangs around the framing. Texas is also one of the states most at risk for termites, so national guidance has wall foam stop short of the top of the foundation wall to leave a strip a pest inspector can see, and it suggests asking the local building inspector and a pest control pro about the local rules for that strip. We're based in Longview and work in the cities around it across East Texas, including White Oak, Kilgore, Tyler and more.
Insulate the floor if the crawl space stays vented, and the walls if you're closing it in. Under the floor, energy guidance allows batts, spray foam or a mix, and says the insulation has to sit in full contact with the air barrier, the layer that stops air moving between the house and the space below. In a closed crawl space, rigid foam board on the walls does the job, so the floor above doesn't need its own insulation.
Outside air coming in through the vents is often the cause, because research on vented crawl spaces in hot, humid climates found they tend to get wetter, not drier. That moist air condenses on the cooler wood of the floor framing, which can lead to mold and wood damage. National guidance says a crawl space always needs a way to dry out, and one of the most effective is a small amount of conditioned air from your heating and cooling system.
It's not a good idea, because sealing the vents without the other details can make the moisture worse. If fuel-burning equipment down there draws its air from the crawl space, like an older gas furnace or water heater, closing it up could create a deadly situation. That's why we check for both before we close anything in.
Across the US, insulating a crawl space usually costs about $3 to $6 per square foot, and that's a national figure for the work in general, not our price. Since it's figured by the square foot, the size of your crawl space is the biggest driver, and old insulation or moisture work adds to it. Your own number comes from the on-site estimate, which lists the areas and materials it covers.
The planning usually takes longer than people expect, because the work can't start until we know what's under the house. I come out first, check for moisture, old insulation and gas equipment, and then we settle on the floor or the walls. If the city needs a permit, that comes before we start, and after that the time on site turns on the size of the space and what has to come out first.
Usually yes, because some foam insulation can give off toxic or flammable gases when it's heated, so most codes call for a thermal or ignition barrier over it, typically drywall. Some foam products have been designed and tested to lower those risks, so it's fair to ask which kind a quote includes. We'll tell you on ours.
