We're Complete Longview Spray Foam Insulation, an insulation contractor based in Longview, TX, and we work in Gilmer on hot upstairs rooms, drafty older houses, cold floors and shops that won't hold the cool. We seal the gaps, then insulate attics, walls and crawl spaces so your house keeps the air you're paying for.
(903) 309-1886
Gilmer is a short drive up the road for our crew, and the calls here sound a lot like the ones back home. It's a bedroom upstairs that never cools down, a room over the garage nobody wants to sleep in, floors that feel cold all winter, or a power bill that keeps creeping up. The houses run from older places near the courthouse square to brick ranch houses and country homes out on acreage, and a lot of those have a shop or metal building out back.
In the older houses I usually find a few inches of insulation that's packed flat, got wet through an old roof leak, or became home to a family of mice. Laying new material on top of that just hides the problem, so the first thing I do in a Gilmer attic is look at what's up there and tell you plainly what's worth keeping.
Call or send the form, and we'll reply within one business day, a lot of the time with me on the other end of the phone. I'll come out to your Gilmer house, look at the attic, crawl space or walls with you, and write a free estimate that spells out which areas and which materials the job covers. There's no obligation, so take your time with it or get a second opinion.
(903) 309-1886Most Gilmer calls start in the attic, and so do we, with air sealing services that close the gaps where outside air sneaks in before any insulation goes down. From there it's blown-in insulation to top up thin attics, spray foam where the ductwork runs through the attic or in shops and metal buildings, removal when the old stuff is wet or full of droppings, and crawl space insulation and vapor barrier for the cold floors over older pier-and-beam houses.
The City of Gilmer issues building permits online, and its permit list names remodels, HVAC and other trades without spelling out insulation, so before we start we check with the city about your job. If a permit is needed, we take care of it as part of our work and tell you up front, and the city's timing on it sets when we can start. You can ask the city yourself through its community development coordinator at 903-843-8209 or City Hall at 903-843-2552. If your job means moving ductwork or touching the AC, that part is heating and cooling work the state licenses through TDLR, and you can look up whoever does it on TDLR's license search.
Gilmer sits less than 20 miles north of Longview, where we're based, so getting a crew up here is easy, and we do the same work in Gladewater and the other cities around it. What moves the price is the size of the attic and how easy it is to get into, how many inches are already up there and whether they have to come out, how many leaks need sealing, and whether the job calls for foam or blown-in. Removal and sealing take longer than the insulating itself, so they set the schedule more than anything, and your estimate spells out which areas we'll cover and with what.
Insulation laid over a wet spot, droppings or a leaky attic just hides the problem, so we clear out what has to go, seal the gaps and keep the eave vents open before anything new goes down. Doing it in that order is what we're best known for.
I come out to look at the job myself, and since plenty of folks have never set foot in their own attic, I'll show you what's up there and why it matters. Then our own crew lead and installers do the work I wrote up.
I learned this trade blowing attics and sealing drafty houses for neighbors on weekends, and I made it my full-time work in 2013. We're licensed and fully insured, and satisfaction guaranteed. Call (903) 309-1886 or send the form to set up a visit.
Your price comes from what your attic needs, and the free estimate puts that in writing for your house, area by area and material by material. Spray foam costs more because it seals air while it insulates, but for most attics I'd rather seal the gaps and top up with blown-in, which is loose fill blown through a hose, unless your ductwork lives up there. If the old insulation is soaked or full of droppings, it has to come out first, and that adds to the job.
Check what's up there, fix what's wrong, seal the gaps, and then add more, in that order. We measure how many inches you have and look for spots that are packed down, wet or full of droppings, then close the leaks around can lights, pipes and the attic hatch so the new layer isn't fighting a draft. We keep the eave vents clear so the attic can breathe and build the edges up as well as the middle, because thin edges are one of the most common misses.
For blown-in work you can usually stay home, and the time up there depends more on sealing and cleanup than on blowing the insulation. Spray foam is different, since you, the kids and the pets stay out until the foam maker's re-entry time, the wait it sets before you come back in, has passed. We tell you that time before we start so you can plan around it.
Usually it's thin or missing insulation in the short walls and the floor around that room, plus air leaking up from the garage. Those spots are easy to miss because they're tucked behind the slope of the roof. During the estimate I look at it from the attic side and the garage side, and then we seal where the air comes through and fill the gaps.
Look up your address on FEMA's flood map viewer, which FEMA calls the best place to start. Upshur County requires a floodplain development permit in the special flood hazard areas on those maps within its jurisdiction. For us, a low or wet lot changes what goes in a crawl space, since closed-cell foam, a dense foam that blocks moisture, holds up where other insulation would soak, so it's worth knowing before the estimate.
